Coastal Dreams

Last weekend I tagged along on a trip to the Croatian Coastline. It was the perfect weekend getaway – especially with the convenience of having our own car! We went to Mostar first to pick up a friend and it was eye opening. I had read about how Mostar was one of the cities that bore the brunt of the fighting during the Bosnian war, but I had no idea how demolished the city really was. There were bombed and burned out buildings everywhere. The famous Mostar Old Bridge was destroyed during the war, but finally rebuilt in 2004, and teens continue jump and dive off it into the river. But so many buildings are still reduced to rubble. And it is still a very much divided community, with Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims) on one side of the river and Croatians on the other. The city has long been an emblem for the bigotry and apartheid blighting Bosnia. As we were driving into town, we passed UN and NATO security forces. They were setting up in Mostar, preparing for that night’s football game Croatia vs. Turkey. We got the heck outta dodge just in time - Croatians incited riots in the street that night after Turkey won.

After a gorgeous drive along the coast, we arrived in Split, Croatia. Its on a small peninsula on the eastern shores of the Adriatic Sea. We quickly settled into the pension, then scurried off to find a good spot for the Euro Cup football match (between Croatia and Turkey). Everyone was decked out in red and white checkered paraphenilia and riding a surge of nationalism. It was really fun to be in the midst of all that energy, watching the game on a flat screen TV at an outdoor bar. It was 0-0 for the longest time, but at the end of the game, Croatia finally scored. While the crowds roared and firecrackers exploded, Turkey snuck in a goal. So it was down to sudden death at the end, and Turkey got the most goals. We were bracing for some football hooliganism, no matter the outcome, but everyone went home quietly dejected.

Saturday morning we took the ferry to Brac Island and hit the beaches in honor of the summer solstice. It was a beautifully sunny day, the longest day of the year! A gorgeous view on the ferry ride, and charming drive to the other side of the island, to Bol. The best beach ever! At the tip of a mini peninsula, with clear turquoise water lapping against the pebble beach. So refreshing to go in the water! Lazing around on an island beach, with a cool ocean breeze swaying through the trees and mountains looming overhead. I could get use to this! That night we walked around the old part of Split, exploring the Diocletian palace on the waterfront, built as a retirement palace by the Roman Emperor around 300 AD. I was enchanted by the night time stroll through the winding alleyways, with charming outdoor cafes and flourishing plants and flowers climbing the walls.

Sunday we headed back to Sarajevo, soaking up sun as we stopped several times along the coast. Taking a dip at the Brela beach (where there were ‘man eating’ fish nibbling my toes!), enjoying fresh grilled food seaside at Mekarska, stopping for vista photo ops, buying fresh figs and nectarines at a roadside stand, and a brief swing through Mostar again.

Its been awhile since my fun in the sun days in Santa Cruz or the Jersey shore. Croatia wins hands down for best beach experience, even over Costa Rica. I came away with more freckles and less stress. All in all a perfect weekend getaway!