Monday, March 31, 2008

Countryside Getaway



The first weekend in March I escaped into the countryside, going to Brasov . It’s a larger city than I expected, but it is nestled in the southern Carpathian Mountains in Transylvania . The movie “ Cold Mountain ” was actually filmed in this region.
Jaci, a fellow intern, accompanied me. We made a perfect traveling team. I did the travel planning and she spoke the Romanian. She lived in Romania for several years as a kid, but had never done any independent traveling as an adult. So we both enjoyed seeing the sights. We started off our adventure truly adventurous. Jaci was a bit late arriving to the train station, so we had to run and hop on the moving train as it was pulling out of the station! The train was filled to the gills, but some nice Hungarian/Roma men helped pull us on board. Then we were packed like standing sardines for an hour until people got off at the next stop. It gave us time to chat with our heroes and they adopted us for the rest of the trip – finding us seats, warning us of pickpockets, and letting us know when our stop was.
It was Jaci’s first time in a hostel, and it wasn’t the best one I’ve stayed in, but still a fun experience! I reveled in the transient, but intense, conversations and encounters one has with fellow backpackers. A lot of people we met were taking a break from volunteering at various orphanages. Romania is notorious for the horrible conditions of its social welfare institutions such as orphanages and mental asylums.
The first day we did a whirlwind castle tour. Rasnov Citadel was first on the list. Impressive remains of an old fortress built 800 years ago, that is in remarkably good shape. Apparently during a particularly long siege of the fortress, the citizens of Rasnov were concerned about the lack of available fresh drinking water. Luckily, two Turkish soldiers, having been captured earlier, were put to the task of digging a well in the center of the fortress. These two men were assured that they would be given their freedom once the well was completed. According to local legend, it took them 32 years to finish the well, but they were still killed afterwards.
Next was Bran castle, aka the infamous “Dracula’s castle.” It is marketed as the home of the titular character in Bram Stoker's Dracula, which has led to persistent myths that it was once the home of Vlad Tepes the Impaler, ruler of Wallachia . While Vlad Tepes did not actually live in the Bran Castle , it is believed he spent two days locked in the dungeon while the Ottomans controlled Transylvania . And it was certainly gloomy and arresting enough, leering over sheer rocks, to inspire Bram Stoker. We even were able to climb through a secret passage!
The last stop was Peles Castle in the idyllic mountain town of Sinaia . King Carol built Peles in 1875 in such a gaudy and extravagant style, but it has all the amenities - Peles was the world's first castle fully operated by electric power. Rooms are themed by cultures (Turkish, Italian) as well as functions (library, armory). All are extremely lavishly furnished and decorated to the slightest detail – a palace in the truest sense.
On Sunday we strolled around the town of Brasov . It was quite charming and a breath of fresh air (literally) from Bucharest . We saw "The Black Church” built in 1477, when it replaced an older church (demolished around 1385 from the Mongol invasion). It acquired the name after being blackened by smoke from the great fire of 1689.
We also hiked up Tampa Mountain and reached the “ Brasov ” sign up top mimicking the “ Hollywood ” sign. It was only 1000 meters high, but the trail was 3000 meters, so it a good hike that morning as I strive to get back into shape. And I always love to be able to say “I climbed a mountain” no matter how small it happens to beJ
So all in all, it was a much needed weekend escape - fresh air and new scenery to explore. Especially because March 8th was the Communist Women’s day - yet another spring celebration where women get flowers. No matter that it’s International Women’s Day too - in Romania , it’s based on the Communist version. It was a fitting time for a girls’ weekend adventure!

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